See Ya, Sarria!
This may be the shortest post on the blog, as it felt as though I did not do anything on this day. Other than walk, of course. I chatted with a few people briefly on the road, but for most of the day I was just plodding along.
The one big noteworthy thing that happened was that I finally passed Sarria. Sarria is the last city before the 100km mark required to get your certificate, so it is the most popular starting point on the entire Camino. While I think starting there is perfectly valid, I also think it's an extremely different experience from starting earlier, and that is reflected in both the people and the businesses you encounter afterwards. The people are less friendly, as they tend to view this more as a fun hike than as a communal experience, and the number of them playing music on portable speakers increases dramatically. The businesses become more about, well, business, and much of the charm is gone. Also, there are way more vending machines.
I did not stay in Sarria, and although I was planning to have lunch there, the trail left the city sooner than I was expecting, and by the time I realized we weren't going to go through the downtown, it was too late and I didn't want to add the extra distance. I pushed on to my stopping point for the night, an albergue in the middle of nowhere, but the only place I could find to reserve at the distance I was looking for. I got there around 2:00, checked in, got some lunch, and took a shower. Dinner wasn't until 7:00, so I read a bit, watched the finale episode of a game show I and some friends follow, and had a very pleasant phone call.
Dinner was good, though somewhat lonely, as it was not a communal meal, but more of a restaurant setting. They did make the best cheesecake I've had since leaving NYC, though. After that I went back and headed to bed early.
I'm not sure how much of it is me walking longer days and how much of it is the Camino actually changing, but the spirit of it really feels different after passing O Cebreiro. It doesn't so much feel like I'm walking a pilgrimage route any more, or even like the Camino I had gotten used to. Instead, it feels like a big vacation experience, catered to everyone, and without any real cameraderie, as people seem far less interested in talking or making friends than earlier on. I've still had some very nice experiences along the way, but they have been much more fleeting and less memorable the last few days. We'll see what the rest of the Camino brings, and whether anything changes if I'm able to catch up to my friends. Only time will tell, I suppose.
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